By Greg Locke
BURGEO, Newfoundland – APRIL 8 2024 – On the remote south west coast of Newfoundland, Eclipse Island is nestled in the harbour of Burgeo. It was named by the legendary navigator and cartographer Capt. James Cook while he was moored there in 1766 and witnessed a total solar eclipse.
From those observations, and comparing them to other observations in other locations, he was able to develop a means of longitudinal global navigation. Much of Cook’s cartography, depth soundings and marine charts for Newfoundland and the east coast of Canada are still in use today.
Return of the total eclipse
Monday April 8, 2024, saw the first return of a total eclipse to the island since Cook moored his ship there 258 years before.
The residents of the fishing town near the now uninhabited Eclipse Island gathered to celebrate the celestial event and start rebuilding a historic beacon on the island while watching the eclipse, where totality lasted about two minutes. Just a matter of how many tourists would make the long drive to the south coast of Canada’s most eastern province.
The 8-foot (2.4 meter) tall beacon was originally built in the 1950s at the peak of Eclipse Island by community members. The restoration was funded by the National Marine Conservation Area and Sandbanks Provincial Park. It runs on solar power.
Total eclipse of the heart
Giving true meaning to Eclipse Island, in Burgeo, a community-focused event at the Government Wharf saw people gather to sing songs, restore the beacon, participate in traditional smudging ceremonies and drumming, while celebrating indigenous culture and heritage.
For me the decision to go rested on where the eclipse would be visible in Newfoundland and the 9 hour drive from St John’s. But once the story and historical value of Eclipse Island became obvious the decision was made for us. How could you not go to Eclipse Island to photograph the eclipse and close and connect the the two historical events.
The beautiful untouched sand beaches and the warm welcome were great bonuses too.
Besides, it turned out that it was one of the very few places, like two! … you could go that day to have clear skies in the province. Seems appropriate.
If you are going
Unless you have a helicopter you will be driving.
It is 896 KM from St John’s and 213 KM from Corner Brook.
You’ll find it at the end of Route 480 which you can pick up from the Trans Canada Highway between the exits to Stephenville.
NOTE: in 2024 the road was poorly maintained and cell coverage non-existent.
Many tourism related business are open seasonally. May 24th weekend is usually the earliest in Newfoundland. Call ahead!
If you are a kayaker Burgeo is the place for you!
Burgeo is also the hub for the passenger and cargo marine service along the south coast of the island connecting the villages of Ramea, Grey River and Francois. An great way to extent you visit and have an amazing adventure on the isolated south coast. Check. Inter provincial ferry service is run by the Government of Newfoundland and Labrador.
Lisa’s Roadside Restaurant.
Gillett’s Motel and Restaurant. Call 709-886-1284
Greg Locke is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Newfoundland, Canada. He is a regular contributor to Reuters, Globe and Mail and Canadian Journalist. All work is property of the author. Copyright 2024. No unauthorized reproduction permitted.
